On a lazy Sunday afternoon in the Loire, we decided to visit the nearby former chateau of Ludwig I de Luc. Brett Snr, Brett and I drove just under thirty minutes to a much smaller chateau, famous mostly for its museum of perfumes. The chateau underwent major restoration work between 1988 and 1992. Its perfume museum, tracing the use and development of fragrance over the centuries, was designed by the lady who owns our cottage. With a moat, hedged maze, frozen pond, chapel and fragrant gift shop, it was a lovely way to spend an afternoon. Brett kindly even read out the guide book for us so we could appreciate the chateau's history even more.